Balenciaga has released garments featuring AMSilk’s bioengineered silk protein yarns as part of its Spring 2026 ready-to-wear collection. The pieces—a white collared shirt and a black shirtdress—are now available in select stores and online. This is the first time AMSilk’s material has been used in commercially available fashion products.
Developed in Germany, AMSilk’s yarns are produced through microbial fermentation using engineered microorganisms. The process replicates proteins based on spider silk DNA, which are then polymerized and spun into yarns with similar texture and appearance to traditional silk.
“This application shows that bioengineered materials are no longer experimental”
Ulrich Scherbel, CEO of AMSilk, stated: “Seeing our material reach consumers through a global luxury brand is a defining moment for AMSilk. This application shows that bioengineered materials are no longer experimental. They are ready for demanding industrial environments and real market adoption.”
Performance requirements of conventional silk
The garments are designed to perform like conventional silk while offering enhanced properties such as elasticity and wrinkle resistance. The material is certified microplastic-free, fully biodegradable, and vegan. It has been approved by the Vegan Society and tested for skin safety by the Hohenstein Textile Testing Institute.
According to AMSilk, its production process uses 97% less water and generates 81% fewer CO₂ emissions compared to conventional silk manufacturing. These efficiencies are achieved through the use of precision fermentation and do not rely on animal agriculture or fossil-based inputs.
Engineering silk at the molecular level
AMSilk’s yarns are produced using DNA editing and protein engineering technologies. Inspired by the mechanical properties of spider silk, scientists engineered bacteria to produce silk proteins at scale. These proteins are converted into textile-grade yarns suitable for established manufacturing systems.
To support commercial-scale production, AMSilk recently expanded its partnership with chemical company Evonik. A dedicated manufacturing line at Evonik’s Slovakian biotech facility will supply the high-performance silk protein using precision fermentation.
Balenciaga is the first fashion label to use AMSilk’s bioengineered silk in retail garments. The collaboration follows several pilot projects in other industries but represents a shift toward broader application in fashion manufacturing. The inclusion of AMSilk’s material reflects ongoing industry efforts to evaluate alternatives to silk sourced from traditional sericulture.
