Estonian biotech company ÄIO has obtained COSMOS certification from Cosmécert for three of its fermentation-derived cosmetic ingredients: RedOil (INCI: Rhodotorula Oil), ZymaLipid Complex (INCI: Linoleic/Oleic/Palmitic Acid), and Encapsulated Oil (INCI: Rhodotorula Ferment).
COSMOS, or COSMetic Organic and Natural Standard, was established in 2010 by several major European certification bodies to harmonise natural and organic cosmetics requirements across the industry. It is recognised by brands, formulators, retailers, and consumers as a benchmark for responsible sourcing, environmental processing standards, and ingredient transparency.
What the certification covers
For a raw material to qualify, it must satisfy COSMOS criteria across ingredient origin and traceability, processing methods, environmental impact, composition, and labelling. Certification confirms that an ingredient is eligible for use in COSMOS-compliant formulations.
ÄIO’s three ingredients are produced through yeast fermentation, converting low-value side-streams from the wood and agricultural industries into functional oils and lipid ingredients. The company argues this approach offers an advantage over conventional agricultural oils: fermentation takes place in controlled environments that are not subject to climate variability or seasonal supply fluctuations.
Biotech ingredients and natural standards
The certification is notable in the context of an ongoing industry question: whether biotechnology-derived ingredients can satisfy the sourcing and processing requirements that define established natural standards. COSMOS certification for ÄIO’s range indicates they can.
“Having COSMOS certification shows that biotechnology-based ingredients can meet the same high standards as traditional natural ingredients,” said Dr. Magdalena Koziol, ÄIO’s Head of Cosmetics Development.
For formulators and brands working within COSMOS-compliant product lines, independent certification reduces the due diligence burden when incorporating newer ingredient categories. “COSMOS certification gives formulators confidence. It confirms that an ingredient meets strict requirements for origin, processing and sustainability, while still performing in real formulations. For us, it removes uncertainty and makes it easier for partners to work with our ingredients,” Koziol added.
